African-Americans honor 'hair-itage'

By Gregory Lewis

South Florida Sun-Sentinel

1:53 PM EST, February 27, 2009

PALM BEACH COUNTY
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Debra Nix remembers when her afro was a symbol of pride, which conflicted with societal norms. IBM hired her anyway.

"It was the new wave of integration in the corporate world and they had to accept me and my afro."

But it was bittersweet, said Nix, of Delray Beach. Corporate America accepted her natural hair, her mother did not.

"She objected. When I got engaged I was still planning to wear it. We had a big family meeting and I agreed to have my hair straightened for the wedding."

She's an example of the power of hair in the black community, where styles are a complex and constantly evolving reflection of cultural and political values -- and fashion. Black Americans spent $3.9 billion in 2007 on hair care products and services, according to Ken Smikle, president of Target Market News, a Chicago-based black consumer tracking firm.

No other community debates the quality and texture of hair, and goes as far as designating hair as "good" because it's straight and "bad" when it's kinky, coarse and nappy.

But those who straighten or perm their kinks face criticism also. They sometimes are accused of being "sellouts" or "wannabes" for trying to look white.

Regina Kimball, a Los Angeles filmmaker, has documented the history and politics of black hair from its ancient African roots to today's hip-hop designs in her film My Nappy Roots: A Journey Through My Hair-itage.

"We should embrace our nappiness," Kimball said, "doing what we choose and support others and stop fighting ourselves" about different hairstyles.

The 78-minute film uses black hair to explore cultural, societal and political issues in the black community over time. The film reveals the significance and pride of African hairstyles, such as cornrows and braiding, which trace their roots back to the motherland.

These days, stylists say anything goes with black hairstyles for men and women: natural styles, dreadlocks, afros, perms, bobs, weaves, extensions, even mullets, fades and mohawks.

Kevin Donjoie wears what he calls "a 'fro Mohawk" inspired by Mr. T.

"You've got to be a little different to pull it off," said Donjoie, 31, of Fort Lauderdale.

Theresa Lewis, a hairdresser in West Palm Beach, said the most popular styles these days are ones that are easy to maintain: nice short cuts, or natural hairstyles or braids and weaves that are not time-consuming to care for.

Lewis has been styling Anna Rosier, a speech language pathologist from Boynton Beach, for more than 20 years.

"When you find a hairdresser you trust, you stick with her," Rosier said.

That is a cultural trait that goes back to ancient Africans, who believed hair was associated with strength and did not let just anyone fix their hair.

Last week, Lewis gave Rosier a short cut that wrapped her face with loose curls hanging down her neck. It's a professional look that fits her life, Rosier said.

Yolle-Guida Dervil wears her hair in natural, short box-cut braids. She is what many call tender-headed, and used to cry in pain when her mother combed her hair.

Frustrated, her mother got her a perm. Her father was furious. But now, a decade later, he disapproves of his daughter's braids.

"My dad has a problem with natural hair," Dervil said. "He considers it unprofessional." But she likes her hair natural.

"I'm either confident or brave," she said, explaining that students had criticized her for wearing a natural hairstyle. "I've found comfort in it."

(Original article: http://www.sun-sentinel.com/news/local/palmbeach/sfl-flpblackhairsbfeb27,0,5155935.story)